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poultry:
benefits and costs

which breeds
 to keep?

our breeds

poultry for
 meat

feeding 
chooks

fencing
for chooks
housing 
for chooks

the 
chook run

breeding and
raising chicks

building our own 
incubators

pests and
diseases

buying
chooks

 

Housing for chooks

Chook tractors  
The simplest way to house chickens is a fully enclosed and movable house with attached pen. These enclosures are called “chook tractors” because they can be moved step by step across your yard. We have four chook tractors on our property. They all measure about three metres in length by one metre in width and are 1.5m high; half of the length is covered with weatherproof sides and a roof while the remainder is covered in 13mm mesh and is open to the elements. Many chook tractors are built as A-frames and have two sloping sides rather than two vertical sides and a roof. We prefer our design. Our chook tractors have a proper roost for the night and the covered section is large enough for the chickens to find protection in bad weather. A-frames provide much less room for the same footprint. Our chook tractors could permanently house three fully-grown chickens, provided they are let out to free-range part of the day. The chickens have access to the grass in the enclosure. Once they have picked the grass and scratched it up the chook tractor needs to be moved to a new spot.

We use our chook tractors for little chickens that hatched in the incubator after they have outgrown their heated hatchling boxes. We also use them for broody hens and later to house them with their hatchlings and as quarantine accommodation for sick chickens. When we buy a new chook we separate it in a chook tractor for a couple of weeks to make sure we do not introduce anything nasty into our flock. Chook tractors are the most versatile chicken housing and you can never have too many of them!

 

Our first model
this tractor is best suited to house broody hens or young birds who do not need to roost. In hindsight the roof should cover a larger area to offer protection against the weather. Size of this tractor is 1m wide by 3m long by 1m high.

 

The improved version
this tractor is still 1m wide by 3m long but offers more height so that chooks have room to perch. It provides more protection against the weather too.

below: this tractor is used as part of a temporay setup. With the door open it gives the chooks access to an area where green manure was grown as a feed crop. The chooks are safely locked up at night.

 

Building a fixed chook house  
The first small chook house we built was just a night shelter for our first three birds. It measured about one metre by one metre, had a height of one metre and was built from timber off-cuts. The roof was a piece of old fibro. It still does its job perfectly well and it hardly cost anything. Chook houses can be as simple as this one! But it is not big enough to have the chooks in there during the daytime too. That is a big disadvantage. As I am writing this it is raining outside. This is one of many days in a row with heavy rain. It is a good feeling to know that all our chickens now have access to much larger houses where they can find shelter in such weather. Our local council permits us to build farm buildings of up to 3m x 3m without a building permit. This is why most of our chook sheds are just under that size.

right: our first small chook house with a fully netted run

   

Our chook houses should:
- last a long time and be well built
- afford shelter and protection to the chooks
- have good ventilation to keep the heat down in summer
- be easy to clean
 - be economical to build

   


the first kit shed 

Kit sheds as chook houses
The first two larger houses we built were garden shed kits that were on special at the local hardware shops. Metal walls have the advantage that they do not offer parasites such as lice and mites room to hide. One big disadvantage when putting up a kit shed is that a proper base must be built to bolt the shed to. This is a fair bit of additional work. We used concrete blocks for the first shed and sleepers for the next one. In both cases reinforcement rods were set into concrete to give extra strength to the foundations. We installed a louvre window in each shed. Even when the temperatures reached the high thirties in January both sheds stayed comfortably cool.   


base built from sleepers for the second kit shed

Our own designs
The next three chook sheds were built in a different way. We used poles set in concrete for each corner of the building. 200mm high sleepers were partially set into the ground and form a solid base for the shed. A framework of 50mm x 75mm beams is put up for the walls and the roof and is covered in metal cladding. A permanently open window is covered with mesh with 13mm square openings. It is a stronger way to build and is cheaper and faster.  

 

Ventilation and the size of windows: how large should the windows be? We looked at photos of chook houses from other parts of Australia and saw that many of them had at least one wall covered in mesh rather than solid sheeting. We wanted to give the chickens more shelter during the cold Tasmanian  winter and experimented with much smaller openings. None of the sheds got too hot in summer and should this ever be a problem we could leave the doors open to increase the ventilation.

Roosts: we use branches from our forest as roosts. The diameter of the roosts should not be too small. 75mm to 100mm is a good size. We do not put the perches up very high, 300mm perching height is enough and they should not be higher than 700mm. All perches should be at the same height so that there is no fighting among the chickens as to who gets the highest perch.

Nests: chickens like to lay their eggs in the darkest spot of the chook house. This is the best place for nest boxes. Old 20 litre water containers make a good nest when an entrance is cut into them. One nest is sufficient for four to five hens. We put hay into the nest and sometimes use fake eggs to attract the hens. Chickens tend to lay eggs where they see other eggs. We installed a six-hole roll-away nest for our layer flock. In roll-away nests the eggs will roll into a covered compartment when the hen lays them. They stay clean and the birds are not tempted to pick their own eggs.

Above right: eggs ready for collection in roll-away nests 

Left: old water containers recycled as chook nests

Right: but occasionally a hen may prefer another spot!

Water and feed: it is quite easy to make your own feeders and drinkers from old water containers, pipes or other second-hand items. The majority of our feeders and drinkers are large units that we bought. The most important thing about the placement of the feeders and drinkers is to hang them from the roof inside the chook house so that they are suspended above the floor at a height that the chickens can reach when they stand. This keeps them at a height that mice and rats can’t reach. Chickens need a lot of water in summer. We often place two drinkers into a chook house to make sure that they won’t run out. If hens run out of water even for a few hours, then they may go off the lay.

Deep litter system: the floor of a chook house could be a simple dirt floor or it could be a concrete floor. Concrete absorbs moisture and dirt and the bedding material needs to be changed regularly. We use the deep litter system instead where wood shavings or hay or straw are placed directly on the dirt floor. If the chook house is always kept dry the bedding material will mix with the droppings and absorb the moisture. When the chooks have scratched the bedding material down we add more. Some people replace the bedding material as seldom as every six months. During our wet Tasmanian winter months we have to replace the bedding material a lot more frequently. Depending on how much mud the chickens carry into the house and on how much water seeps into it from the outside we change the hay every few weeks. We add a thin layer of hay once per week. When we clean the shed the old hay (carbon) with the bird droppings (nitrogen) goes straight onto a compost pile and from there onto the garden beds. It makes excellent fertilizer-enriched mulch.

poultry:
benefits and costs

which breeds
 to keep?

our breeds

poultry for
 meat

feeding 
chooks

fencing
for chooks
housing 
for chooks

the 
chook run

breeding and
raising chicks

building our own 
incubators

pests and
diseases

buying
chooks

 

Top of page
Home Donations

Poultry & eggs for sale

Poultry info Garden 
Diary
Alphabet of Gardening Gardening 
Calender
Orchards Kitchen Garden Vegie Garden Tasmania- 
the dark side
About us Contact
Resources
Disclaimer

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